Dalmatian Vacation

At the end of August I had the most amazing time during a trip to Croatia.  Not only did I spend it with my nearest and dearest best friend, but the beautiful Dalmatian coast, food, an mini adventures were better than I ever expected for this vacation.  It was sad to leave and come back to the bipolar dreariness of Parisian weather, but my batteries feel recharged and ready for cuisine phase two.

Split was our home base.  We spent each day walking through the outdoor market and breathing in the thick sweet smells of suckling fruits and vegetables. The produce was absolutely amazing: fresh, fragrant and bursting of flavor.

The dried figs were my favorite.  Rustic and homey, they reminded me of the persimmons my family picks and dries in the fall.  I brought some back as presents and stashed one bag in the freezer to take back to Korea this winter.  So far I’ve done a good job and keeping my hands off them, but who knows? Winter is still a few months away, one or two nibbles may lead to an empty bag!

  

  

We ended up eating more street food and packed sandwiches than at nice restaurants, but we did manage to go to one, Kod Joze.  It was a bit touristy but enjoyable overall. The grilled scampi were excellent.  Super fresh and seasoned with just a little olive oil, salt and pepper.  The green noodles with seafood was not bad.  The flavor was nice, but the plating made it difficult to eat; a bowl would have been better.

With an average temperature of 34 degrees (93 degrees F), gelato and cool drinks were essential.  We spent one day just roaming around Diocletian’s Palace, walking through small streets and little alleyways. The past and present are so flawlessly intertwined that it’s almost unbelievable to think that these structures have been standing for hundreds of years.

Dalmatian cuisine has a heavy Italian influence, so pizza and risotto are common items on menus.  We had this Dalmatian ham, prsut, mushroom, and egg pizza at Posejdon, an al fresco restaurant just inside the palace walls. We also ordered a mussel risotto, which were made with very fresh shellfish.

Our favorite pizzetta was at a random cafe just a few steps away from Posejdon. They have a window that faces the street where people can order.  We loved the soft, airiness of the dough.  Contrary to how it looks, the pizzetta was actually quite light, just enough topping to moisten the crust.

  

  

These grilled sardines from a vendor on the Riva was also one of my favorites. Simple and fresh, these tartines were minimally seasoned, like most Croatian food, which allowed the uninhibited degustation of the natural flavors of the sardines. We enjoyed them on the waterfront and saw the promenade slowly come alive as the evening set in.

My most favorite meal was definitely the one made for us by our apartment host.  Sometimes when I travel, I like to book accommodation through AirBnB.  I’ve found great apartments and room sublets through the site, and it’s definitely a good way to meet locals and have a more “off the beaten track” experience.  My friend and I totally fell in love with our hosts, Pero and his wife Natasa.  We came home one night to find a surprise mini meal of moussaka and pickled paprika from their garden.  Again, really light on seasoning but full of flavor, next time we go they’ve promised to grill us a traditional Dalmatian meal!  Can’t wait.

We spent our last two days exploring Brac and Vis islands off the coast of Split. We packed some prsut, tilzit cheese, and dried fig sandwiches on both days, which we enjoyed on the waterfront or at the beach.

The two biggest highlights of the trip was canyoning through a river an hour outside of Split, and visiting the Blue and Green caves on Vis Island.  Truly amazing and absolutely unforgettable.  I never imagined myself actually jumping off cliffs and swimming privately! through one of the most beautiful natural settings ever.  Unforgettable.

My words about Croatia: I’ll be back.

Kod Joze
Sredmanuska 4
Split, Croatia
Map

Posejdon
Adamova 5
Split, Croatia
Map